Day nine, September 14, was the record for transportation phases. The plan? Take the subway to Glasgow Central Station, take a train then a coach to a ferry port in southern Scotland, take a ferry into Belfast Harbor, take a bus (or two) to the Belfast City airport, and then pick up a rental car and head west into Donegal. We should have somehow fit a ride in a blimp in there…
Anyway, we were up early heading to Glasgow Central and fumbling around with checking in for our train ride. We did finally get it figured out, purchased some much-needed coffee, and then sat waiting to board the train. I get somewhat giddy and nostalgic about train rides, and I think I did more bouncing in my seat than waiting patiently. We boarded, and were off along the tracks, leaving Glasgow behind us for good.
We had actually purchased a rail-sail ticket through the Stena Line (one of the main ferry lines between Great Britain and Ireland) so thankfully there wasn’t much figuring out of things on our end once we boarded the train. We got off the train right at the station our coach departed from, and the coach took us right to the ferry terminal. Although not quite as much fun as the train ride, I enjoyed our time on the bus following the coast and zig-zagging through the little Scottish towns. Eventually, the winding roads started to get to me, and I was more than happy to tumble off the bus and head into the ferry terminal to await our journey across the sea.
If you are even needing to get from Scotland to Ireland and have the time, I highly recommend taking the sail-rail option instead of trying to get a flight. It is a long journey, but in my opinion it was completely worth it and a really relaxing way to see the country. The prices are pretty decent as well – better than taking a plane.
After waiting around in the ferry terminal for a good hour, writing an e-mail to my co-workers, and taking a short snooze, we began boarding. I’ve taken ferries from Door County’s mainland to Washington Island before, and I’ve taken even tinier ferries from Washington Island to Rock Island. But I wasn’t sure what to expect on such a big ferry. It had somewhere around 8 or 9 decks, lots of restaurants, private spa suites, video games, and in general was a giant floating money trap. On the inside, at least.
It also had a very nice sundeck on the outside, which was where Jason and I parked ourselves for most of the two-hour journey across the water. We happened to have a beautiful, sunny day that made for perfect traveling weather. The breeze off of the sea was cold but the sun was warm enough that it wasn’t unbearable. I did go inside at one point to warm up with a latte and make use of the free WiFi to send a Facebook message to my family. I think I was feeling somewhat inspired by the fact that I was chugging across the ocean to Ireland, not unlike our Irish ancestors chugging on their much longer journeys across the ocean to the US.
Scotland’s mountains gleamed behind us, and gradually disappeared out of sight. We watched the jellyfish bobbing on the surface and kept our eyes open for signs of land to the west – Ireland.
And then there it was – giant cliffs dropping down into the ocean, green fields broken by tumbling stone walls, and small fishing villages with their brightly-painted stucco houses bordering the sandy beaches. I stood and looked at it for a long time, paying attention to what I was feeling in that moment. Because after all these years of longingly looking at photos and watching Irish movies and constantly feeling like there was a part of myself I had yet to find, I was facing it.
Now, I should clarify – I am not 100% Irish. My maiden name was O’Boyle, but I am in fact maybe only ¼ Irish. The rest of me is a mixed bag of German, French, Native American, and English. But perhaps because I spent most of life trying to phonetically explain my very Irish last name (“Capital ‘O’, apostrophe, capital ‘B’….) I think I’ve always chosen to identify most with the Irish part of my heritage. Multiple times, I’ve had people tell me that I “look” very Irish – from complete strangers to uncles.
And so it’s always been sort of a dream of mine to visit the shores that were looming up ahead of me and rapidly approaching. I didn’t know exactly what I was hoping to find there, or what I thought I would feel. But I did feel something as we pulled into Belfast harbor – something akin not to coming home but to finding a piece of the puzzle and understanding better where I come from. It was a reverent sort of feeling, and I think I’ll leave it at that.
We made our slow docking in the harbor and tumbled off the boat with the throngs of other passengers. Eventually, through conversation with a very helpful bus driver, we got a ride downtown, transferred, and rode the bus out to the City Airport, where we picked up our second rental car. This one was a true manual transmission. The rental in Scotland had been labeled as a manual but was really just an automatic with the shifter located in the center console. Good thing Jason had driven a manual during his days as a Hawaiian.
One of the things that struck me the moment that we got off the boat was the intense friendliness of the Irish people. I’d heard about this – Irish people in general love to talk with anyone about anything. Not that the Scottish people had been rude, but they had been much more reserved in their interactions with us. Not so with the people in Belfast. The women at the bus stop clucked and chuckled over our “lovely accents”, the clerk at the rental car desk talked with us animatedly about her fond memories of Donegal.
Traveling road-trip style once again, we settled back into our roles: Jason doing his best to mind the different driving style and the manual transmission, me awkwardly navigating us across the northern half of the island by map and occasionally by phone when we felt a little uncertain of our location. I only managed to get us absurdly turned around once, when we stopped for groceries somewhere in Northern Ireland before crossing the border into the Republic of Ireland. For some reason, I kept getting my left and right turns confused. Granted, left and right are the same no matter what country you’re in, but because you take different actions with your right and left turns over there, I kept getting things turned around. Well, we made it to the grocery store regardless and then continued on our way.
We crossed into the Republic of Ireland not long after the grocery stop. This, for me, meant that we were truly on “Irish” soil. It looked the exact same as Northern Irish soil, for the record.
On we drove, over little rivers and past Irish mountains and green pastures. The landscape slowly became more rugged, and eventually the signs were entirely in Gaelic. We knew we were nearing our destination: a tiny little cottage in the hills of Donegal near the town of Kincasslough. I successfully navigated us along the winding, narrow roads until we came to a gravel lane and took that for a mile or so.
It was getting dark as we pulled up next to a white cottage with bright green windows – our home for the next few days. We drove a bit farther up the lane to check in with the owners, who welcomed us into their house warmly and had us sit down in the living room. Our short-term landladies were completely delightful. They were two German sisters who had immigrated to Ireland some twenty years ago. Not only that, but they were huge Tolkien fans and the majority of our conversations ended up circling back to hobbits and elves and New Zealand.
We sat and chatted with them for over an hour, and then Sabine (the younger sister) walked us back up to our cottage and showed us around. I’ve stayed in a handful of cabins, B&B’s, and hotels since marrying Jason and embarking on our various adventures, but nothing compared to this little haunt. It was so adorable I almost couldn’t stand it.
Now, the lady at the rental car desk had advised us that, if we wanted to meet people, we should park ourselves at the most “local” looking pub that we could find. We had no objections to this, except for the fact that we had forgotten to exchange our pounds for Euros and weren’t sure if a small local place would take a card. We attempted to locate a cash machine, and to give you an idea of how rugged Donegal is, it was impossible to find one after 9pm on a Saturday. We even tried the tiny airport up the road and found the gates locked up tight. Eventually, we decided to chance it and stopped in at Leo’s Tavern, up near Gweedore.
Now, if you know anything about Leo’s, well, you know that Leo’s daughters are Enya and Moria Brennan. It floors my mind to think that both girls got their starts in a tiny, humble pub somewhere up in remote northwestern Ireland. Needless to say, Leo’s Tavern has now become fairly well-known for its live musicians, and we were treated to a couple hours of driving Irish music played by two young lads from Dublin. They did take a credit card, by the way.
The band referred to themselves at The Shenanigans , and well lived up to their name. They picked Jason and I out of the crowd straight away, saying that we looked “exotic” and then continued to rib us from stage all night long. I think the only people they picked on more was a couple from Belfast…it was all in good fun though, and many laughs were had by all.
Completely content with our first night in my homeland, we made our way back to our cozy cabin and snuggled into bed up in the lofted sleeping area, under a skylight that revealed a half-full moon peeking out from the clouds as the wind picked up and pushed them along.
– Johanna